This is my 11th Vinitaly with my friend Susanna Crociani who owns a winery in Montepulciano and makes wonderful Nobile di Montepulciano using traditional grape varieties. We get to the fair early, set up and go in our own directions. I always learn something new from Susanna. She’s very creative and always thinking of new ways to communicate. We’ve shared an apartment all these years and I consider her and my other roommate, a journalist and expert taster, my Vinitaly family.

I try to make as many appointments as possible and in between, attend seminars, taste new wines at the sommelier stands and say hi to old friends and people I don’t get to see often enough. Today a friend made a comment that Vinitaly is like New Year’s Eve. You make resolutions about what will happen post-Vinitaly. I knew just what he meant and thought I feel much the same way about this annual event.

After appointments in Tuscany, Trentino and Sardegna, I attended a seminar in Soave about all of their new projects. They are and have been very active these past 10-15 years and the wines showed beautifully. The have new maps of the areas with a great level of detail. They’ve also had some incredible photos take of their areas, are working on biodiversity projects and looking to have certain techniques given conservation status.

The amazing projects that they have today were a counterweight to the sad news of the passing of one of Soave’s most iconic producers, Pieropan.

I never have had the pleasure of meeting him but his wines have defined Soave for me as an adult. I tasted them again at OperaWine and at the press conference. Elegant, with great citrus and pear notes, wonderful texture on the palate and a very long and persistent finish.