Wine of the Week: Teodosio 2019, Aglianico del Vulture from Basilisco

Basilicata is a lovely region in Southern Italy with some great wines made from Aglianico in primis and other wine grapes as well. I’ve had many wines from this region although never as many during Basilicata Stories back in 2018, an initiative that is related to Campania Stories and is run by the same media agency, Miriade & Partners, s.r.l.

Basilicata is one of Italy’s smaller regions, 19th out of 20 years in terms of population density, with 57 inhabitants per kilometer, fewer than even the Valle d’Aosta, to be clear. There are two main provinces in Basilicata – Matera and Potenza. Basilicata borders Puglia to the North, Campania to the West, and Calabria to the South. The topography is mostly mountainous (46%) and hilly (46%). The only area with real plains is the area around Metaponto, in the southern part of the region, which I visited in 2003 with my Mom.

In terms of geographical features, the Apennine mountain range runs through the region which is also known as Lucania. There is also a larger extinct volcano known as the Vulture. While Basilicata is covered by mountains and hills, it also has two amazing coastlines, one on the Ionian Sea and the other on the Tyrrhenian Sea.

The region can be divided into six areas with different climatic influences. Most of the vineyards lie in the province of Potenza with Aglianico being the grape of choice. Aglianico del Vulture Superiore is the only denominazione d’origine controllata e garantita (D.O.C.G.). There are a few DOC wines and a Basilicata IGP denomination as well as well as a Matera DOC (DOP). Sparkling, white, rosé, red and passito wines are produced.

Basilicata holds a dear place in my heart because it was a place I used for years to explain why I couldn’t leave Italy. Essentially, the refrain was, I haven’t yet been to Basilicata so thus I can’t leave. Needless to say I went to Matera in 2002 but still didn’t leave Italy for another few years. I had my first Aglianico del Vulture in 2002 and fell in love. I am thrilled to see that while not a household word yet, it is relatively well known in certain wine circles in the United States.

Basilicata is considered by some to be Aglianico’s true home. While exact evidence is difficult to uncover, experts agree that the grape was found in this region as early as the 6th century B.C. Regardless of when it arrived in Basilicata, Aglianico has brought acclaim to the region for the fabulous wines it produces from the volcanic soils around Mount Vulture. Aglianico, a late ripening grape, is generally the last of the grapes to be picked for making dry wines.

In Basilicata, Aglianico, tends to be cultivated on slopes which are anywhere from 400 to 800 meters above sea level. The region is very dry and hot in the summer. In the winter, it can get quite cold. These temperature changes give the vines time to rest and help to create concentrated fruit. Aglianico has good acidity and firm tannins. The aromatics of the grape tend towards blueberry, cherry, chocolate, coffee and smoke notes. Aglianico del Vulture is a very long lived wine and can take some years to open up.

Aglianico del Vulture was given the DOC designation in 1971 and finally the DOCG in 2011.

Aglianico del Vulture can be made into a variety of styles. The base wine is aged for 12 months in barrels which are generally made of chestnut although some producers are trying to use French oak. When the wine label has the word vecchio on it, it means the wines have been aged in wood for 36 months. For the Riserva wines, the aging period is usually 60 months. Aglianico del Vulture can also be made into a dry and sweet sparkling wine as well.

I drank one from Basilisco to break my dry January last night with a friend. The winery iis located in Barile, a town smack in the middle of the DOCG. The winery received organic certification in 2015. Although my taste buds were’t used to wine after a 30 day hiatus, I found this wine supple but also full bodied with integrated fruit and spice and the elegant aromatics I find with volcanic soils. I wasn’t at all surprised at the elegance of the careful winemaking since Basilico is owned by Feudi di San Gregorio, an important player in the Campania wine scene that also makes great Aglianico in that region. I wrote a post about their Taurasi years ago as well.

This particular wine I tried was made by their winemaker, Viviana Malafarina. She learned her craft at the side of some very special industry giants, including my friend Pierpaolo Sirch from Simonit and Sirch, the super pruner duo from Friuli. Pierpaolo is the agronomist at Feudi di San Gregorio. Viviana is not only the winemaker but also manages the 60 hectares under Basilisco’s control.

I love the wines from this region and this year intend to drink more of them, whenever I can find them. Aglianico is the red grape for 2024, I am convinced. Salute!!

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