Avvinare started as a blog about Italian women in wine, a subject that has fascinated me for many years. As always happens, you start in one area and end up writing about many other areas as well but my 2013 resolution is to make posts about women in wine one of the main series on this blog. I had decided that Friday’s would be the perfect day but the recent tragedy in Connecticut left me unable to write a post. It’s unimaginable what the families of all of the 27 victims are going through. I only hope that this will start a dialog that leads to some new legislation.
Today’s post is about a winery from Franciacorta, an area that I am very drawn to. The winery is Il Mosnel, that has been in the Barboglio family since 1836. Emanuela Barboglio, Lucia’s mother was the one to really focus on the vineyards and the new denomination of Franciacorta back in 1968. Today Lucia and her brother Giulio run the winery.
Last week, December 13, was Santa Lucia when many Italian celebrate Christmas, especially in the North. It’s also my niece and Lucia Barzano’s namesake so it seems a perfect time to write about her winery.
I met Lucia and tasted her wines at a tasting event in New York some years ago thanks to my friend Susanna Crociani . I remember them as being highly refined, elegant sparklers with minerality and white fruit and floral notes. The winery makes a long lineup of wines including a Brut, Brut Rose, Pas Dose, Brut Saten Millesimato, Rose’ Pas Dose Millesimato “Parose'” and a Brut Millesimato “Emanuela Barboglio.” They also make some still wines under the Curtefranca DOC denomination. Doctor Wine or Daniele Cernilli has written a long and interesting piece on his views of Franciacorta.
Il Mosnel’s wines are made with a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero. Some see partial oak fermentation while other parcels are done purely in stainless steel. The winery has 38 hectares of DOCG vineyards and 2 hectares of DOC vineyards. Starting in 2011, the winery has also begun the process of getting certified their vineyards certified as organic. The soil have more chalk than clay and are moderately deep. They tend to face East- Souteast and are densely planted. All of the vineyards have been replanted since 1985 moving from using a Sylvoz training system to Guyot or spurred-Cordon (Cordone Speronato)
I always think of Franciacorta in December as a celebratory wine for the holidays. While the area has made some headway in the US, I think it could do much more and producers such as Il Mosnel are certainly doing their part. I follow much of what goes on in Franciacorta through Lucia’s Twitter Feed. Unlike me, she is very active on Twitter and I believe that is where she and Susanna “met.” Susanna Crociani is another active Twitterer.
According to their brochure, Il Mosnel is a word with Celtic origins and means a rock pile. It is also the name of the lands and the house where the winery is located.
I haven’t been to Franciacorta in a number of years but have fond memories of the area and all of producers. I also really like the city of Brescia which surprises some people.
Today is a pretty grey day in NYC despite holiday decorations, a glass of Il Mosnel seems like a good anecdote.