Wine of the Week: Cesarini Sforza Tridentum Trento DOC 2007

Cesarini Sforza

As the holiday season shifts into high gear, I am thinking of bubbles from all over the world to bring to a party, to serve at home, to have out at a dinner. The truth is, I love bubbles all year long and throughout an entire meal. If I had to give up all wines save one category, hands down I would keep sparkling wines in my corner. Not only are bubbles festive and celebratory, they are also wonderfully made and usually blended with care from different parcels, grape varieties and often vintages to achieve a certain house style.

This week’s wine of the week for Wine Wednesday is Tridentum Trento DOC from Cesarini Sforza. Trento D.O.C. wines are from the Trentino region of Italy. They are made using the classical method – secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle. These wines are not as well known as Prosecco is nor as Franciacorta DOCG wines but are a very good example of an Italian sparkling wine that is both good and well-priced.

The wine is made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes from Masi di Pressano and from the Valle di Cembra. The soils in the Masi di Pressano area are clay mixed with calcareous materials and white pepples. They are good draining soils. Those in the
Valle di Cembra are more friable and are the remains of glacier-formed accumulation, often called moraines with some sand. The vineyards face West at 350-650 meters above sea level.

Some 85% of the grapes ferment in stainless steel while 15% in various wood containers. The must is subject to weekly battonage and the wine is matured on its lees for 36 to 48 months.

As I write these words I went to look at Franco Ziliani’s blog, Le Mille Bolle and found a very interesting post written by Franco and the Trentino Wine Blog by Cosimo Piovasco di Rondò about Mezzacorona’s ad campaign using “hippie” images to sell their wines. It is in Italian so I am not sure how many people can read it and sadly I don’t have time to translate it at the moment but the “succo” or the “juice/heart” of the matter is whether or not this is an appropriate campaign for these wines.

On the one hand, Trentino Wine Blog was overjoyed that they are opening up to these “social” themes on the other Ziliani, a self-professed “reactionary” was making more of a comment on wine quality and was less sanguine on the theme. To each his own but I kind of like it and was surprised. Anyway, Le Mille Bolle is a great source of information on sparkling wine while the Trentino blog is a resource for information on wines from that region. Whatever you read, think sparkling, it’s the holidays.

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