This month as we focus one of my favorite topics, Italian Indigenous Grapes, I am looking at Ciliegiolo. I first start hearing about this grape many years ago in Tuscany, one of the two regions where it is very popular. However at that time, it was always used as a blending grape with other varietals.

Ciliegiolo is one of those grapes that I love to pronounce with all of its’ vowels. I think it sounds sexy and it is often a component in wines that make me happy whether they be from the Maremma , the Colli Pisani, Colli Lucchesi, Chianti, Chianti Classico or from Liguria and its Colli di Luni or Golfo del Tigulio, among others.

In the past 10 years, many have begun making monvarietal wines from it and I think it is absolutely a perfect wine for Spring.

The origin of the grape is somewhat in dispute. Some think it came from Spain, others suggest that is impossible because it is genetically related to Sangiovese. There too, it is unclear what the exact relationship betwen the two actually is, whether one or the other is the “parent” grape. Ciliegiolo also mean cherry or can be said to be derived from the word for cherry: ciliegio

Ciliegiolo brings lots. of color (ruby red), structure, alcohol  and fruit aromas and flavors to the table. What it lacks though is acidity, an essential component in a wine and one that makes it pair well with food. Novello, Italy’s version of Beaujolais Nouveau, is often made from this grape variety.

I just had a host of these wines at the Anteprime Toscane and at the Gambero Rosso International, Tre Bicchieri event.

A few that stood out are ones from wineries that I am familiar with such Cantina Lunae Bosoni version from Liguria. I have met Diego many times throughout the years and always love his family wines from this key Ligurian winery in the Colli di Luni area in Liguria, right on the border with Tuscany. His Ciliegiolo grows on a parcel of land of 3 hectares between the Alpe Apuane and the Sea. He calls it a Rosso di Mare or a red wine of the sea and I think that’s a great definition. I loved it freshness and purity. It brought be right back to the amazing times I have sailed in that area. I can also see it pairing perfectly with Ligurian cuisine. It was a beautiful, fun wine which I think has a big future in the USA, just like their Vermentinos.

I also tried the Ciliegiolo from Fattoria Fibbiano which I am familiar with from other tastings. Its a wine that was ruby red in color with aromas of raspberries, cherries and blackberries , a slight forest floor note and lively freshness./acidity. I detected a hint of wood and  found the tannins were soft and silky.

Matteo Cantoni when I first met him, was also the President of the Consorzio of the Vini Terre di Pisa.  Pisa is a marvelous town and exciting despite being the most photographed place in the world. Volterra the other town nearby, was a milestone in my life with its beautiful Etruscan ruins and equally beautiful faces.

I also loved the ones I tried from Maremma at the Altra Toscana event in Florence that I knew less well.

I worked for six years with the wines from the Morellino di Scansano DOCG area and am familiar with many wineries from that area but I had not had the pleasure of trying wines from Tenuta Acquilaia until now. Their version of Ciliegiolo was structured with considerable alcohol, at 14% and was a deep ruby red wine with bigger aromas of cherry and cola, it was modern in style and I can see it appealing to a vast array of people. I love that they call it their “Auspici” line of Mother Nature which means good wishes, fortune, good luck, all positive things. The second wine in this picture is from the Cantina di Pitigliano.

I discovered the wines from Pitigliano in the Maremma in the early 1990s when I was lucky enough to visit the town during a weekend trip. I was on the trail of the Etruscans, an ancient people that populated these towns a few thousand years earlier. My Mom studied the Etruscans in graduate school when pregnant with me and their history has always interested me.

The town is so beautiful with tufo caves and amazing views. It’s near two other towns which I loved Sorano and Sovana. I’ve never visited the area again despite many years in Italy and numerous trips to Tuscany. I was therefore thrilled during the Anteprime in February I had the chance to their Ciliegiolo called Via Cave Gradone. The soils in the area are of volcanic origin and vineyards tend to be about 300 meters above sea level. The climate is Mediterranean. As an aside, their Bianco di Pitigliano was given a DOC designation in 1966, one of the earliest denominations. The cooperative there was founded in 1954 and they have 600 members. 

I really liked this fresh and elegant version of Ciliegiolo as well. It’s a great wine for Spring and for anytime really because it also pairs well with food. I had a lovely Salmon steak yesterday and wished I had a bottle on hand to enjoy along side of it.

Here’s what the group is sharing and later today we will be gathering on Saturday, March 9th at 11am for a chat on Threads chat. Follow #ItalianFWT and join in the conversation if you like.

• An Umbrian Grape with Greek Origins: Cantina Roccafiore Grechetto di Todi Fiordalis + Pesce alla Ghiotta by Culinary Cam (you’re here)
• BI.VI.SI.: Revitalizing Sicily’s native, ancient vines for forgotten flavors like Frappato by Wine Predator…Gwendolyn Alley
• Brachetto: A Piemontese Grape Meant for Food! by Keep the Peas
• Castello di Grumello Medera & Casconcelli by The Quirky Cork
• Ciliegiolo, Great Wines for Spring by Avvinare
• Durella – Native vine of the Lessini Mountains that Sparkles by Crushed Grape Chronicles
• Pasta, Wine, and a Cookbook Review by A Day in the Life on the Farm
• Pizza Wine! Fresh, Fruity, and Made from Native Italian Grapes by My Full Wine Glass
• Sicilian Wine Grapes: Grillo and Frappato by Cooking Chat
• Sicily’s Zibibbo Grape with Fish Cakes by Vino Travels
• Unlock the Beauty of Mexican Wines: The Fusion of Italian Indigenous Grapes by Our Good Life