Remembering Two Trips to Normandy & Sipping Calvados

I am thinking about France today and remembering a trip to Normandy. I have been lucky enough to visit Normandy on two special occasions. The first was a Father-Daughter trip long ago. We visited the cemetery at Colleville-Sur-Mer while staying in Deauville. It was one of the most moving places I have ever visited, where almost 10,000 Americans were buried after D-Day took place and so many brave men lost their lives. I remember taking a picture and turning around and seeing my Dad, a historian, cry. It was very emotional indeed. All of my Mother’s cousins served in World War II and my Father’s Uncle Murray was also in World War II. In fact, he was one of the only survivors from Pearl Harbor. Our Normandy trip wasn’t just about D-Day, although it would have been worth it.

We also traveled to marvelous other important locations like the one in the picture above, the museum that houses the Bayeux Tapestry. This ancient Tapestry records the history of William, the Duke of Normany, who became William the Conqueror and took over England in 1066. Again, historian Dad and his willing pupil, me, loved seeing this amazing art.

We also visited Mont-St-Michel, another location not to be missed in one’s lifetime. We climbed to the top, walked in the town, had omelets at La Mère Poulard’s, and marveled at the architectural and artistic feat that the church and its surrounding town are testament to. Other sites to marvel at while there were Honfleur with its picturesque port, shops, and restaurants and a lovely Boudin Museum and the amazing cliffs at Étretat.

Dad basically introduced me to wine but isn’t a huge drinker. We tried a lot of the local Calvados, an apple brandy. Calvados can be made from over 200 different apple varieties. Many producers use more than 100 types in their Calvados blends.

Orchard

Good Calvados comes from apples which are picked by hand. The apples are then pressed into a juice which is allowed to ferment into dry cider. The cider is distilled into eau de vie. After distillation, Calvados spends time aging in oak casks. Distillation can take place in either a single column still or in a pot still for a double distillation. This latter type actually produces the finer Calvados.

Calvados production, like wine, is regulated by the appellation contrôlée system in France. To be an AOC, Calvados must come from certain restricted area and it must spend a minimum of two years aging in oak barrels. The types of apples used to make cider are also regulated as are pressing, fermentation, distillation, and aging methods.

Apples 2

Calvados can also be made from pears. Domfrontais is an area that is especially well known for its pear calvados. Like in a Sherry or a Cognac, the age listed on the bottle is usually the age of the youngest brandy in the blend. Calvados has a very specific labeling system which can be confusing at times. The youngest calvados which is at least two years old is called “Fine”, “Trois étoiles”, or “Trois pommes.” Three years or more and the Calvados can use the expression Vieux” or Réserve.” If it is at least four years old, it can use the “V.O.”, “Vieille Réserve”, or “V.S.O.P.”

For the finest Calvados or those that are at least six years old, “Extra”, “X.O.”, “Napoléon”, “Hors d’Age”, or “Age Inconnu” are the terms used. That said, much Calvados is considerably older than just the six years.

Calvados can be used as an after dinner digestif instead of a Cognac or another brandy. It can also be used to cleanse the palate in-between courses.

In Italy, Calvados is usually consumed over apple sorbet. My dear friend Paolo never finished a meal without the requisite sorbetto con Calvados. During all those years that we dined together I have to say I only ordered it once or twice. It was memorable but I just never got into the habit of ordering it.

My second amazing trip to Normany was with a French friend.  We visited Claude Monet’s house at Giverny. While there, I had the opportunity to try some local brands of Calvados.

While the Calvados was grand, Monet’s home and his waterlilies left me speechless. For all those who love Monet, this is a pilgrimage you must make at least once in your life. I am going to post a series of pictures of the lilies because they are just exquisite.

Monet

Here’s another one. I just love his paintings and seeing his home was actually a moving experience for me.

Crowding on the pond

I must not be alone because it was quite crowded.

Water lilies

It was a perfect day in a beautiful town in Normandy which started with a lovely walk through Monet’s gardens and ended with a delicious glass of Calvados.

More Waterlilies

A memorable event and one to be repeated.

Perfect

Normandy is an incredible region, rich in history and art – two of my favorite subjects, food and wine – another two of my favorite subjects, with beauty all around and a true significance in the history of global events. A must visit region for all of the above, salut!

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