Spirited Sunday: Calvados, An Apple Brandy

Calvados, an Apple brandy, can be made from over 200 different apple varieties. Many producers use more than 100 types in their Calvados blends.

Good Calvados comes from apples which are picked by hand. The apples are then pressed into a juice which is allowed to ferment into dry cider. The cider is distilled into eau de vie. After distillation, Calvados spends time aging in oak casks. Distillation can take place in either a single column still or in a pot still for a double distillation. This latter type actually produces the finer Calvados.

Calvados production, like wine, is regulated by the appellation contrôlée system in France. To be an AOC, Calvados must come from a certain restricted area and it must spend a minimum of two years aging in oak barrels. The types of apples used to make cider are also regulated as are pressing, fermentation, distillation, and aging methods.

Apples 2

Calvados can also be made from pears. Domfrontais is an area that is especially well known for its pear calvados. Like in a Sherry or a Cognac, the age listed on the bottle is usually the age of the youngest brandy in the blend. Calvados has a very specific labeling system which can be confusing at times. The youngest calvados which is at least two years old is called “Fine”, “Trois étoiles”, or “Trois pommes.” Three years or more and the Calvados can use the expression Vieux” or Réserve.” If it is at least four years old, it can use the “V.O.”, “Vieille Réserve”, or “V.S.O.P.”

For the finest Calvados or those that are at least six years old, “Extra”, “X.O.”, “Napoléon”, “Hors d’Age”, or “Age Inconnu” are the terms used. That said, much Calvados is considerably older than just the six years.

Calvados can be used as an after dinner digestif instead of a Cognac or another brandy. It can also be used to cleanse the palate in-between courses.

In Italy, Calvados is usually consumed over apple sorbet. My dear friend Paolo never finished a meal without the requisite sorbetto con Calvados. During all those years that we dined together I have to say I only ordered it once or twice. It was memorable but I just never got into the habit of ordering it.

I am having thinking a lot about France in this days and wishing to go back for a visit soon. Before I became immersed in all things Italian, France was my first love. I remain a Francophile to this day and look forward to my next sip of Calvados.

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