The first time I went to this enoteca on 64th and third avenue I went for the wine. The food was a distant second in terms of my interest. At the time, I was very impressed by the 500+ wine list but the pizza I shared with a friend faded into the background. I went back recently for lunch with a number of people and had the opportunity to try not just one but several of Chef Kevin Garcia’s creations. I was very impressed as was a friend from Naples. She paid him the ultimate compliment, stating that she felt that she was eating at home (in Italy). I know what she means. After 15 years in Italy, it is very hard for me to find a meal that I enjoy at an Italian restaurant in New York. Maybe I just miss il bel paese but what I noticed yesterday after the exquisite meal at Accademia di Vino was I too felt like I had just enjoyed a long lunch in Italy.

My favorites were the salad of endive, gorgonzola, walnuts, and apples and the garganelli, a pasta with chicken sausage, zucchini, tomato, and cream. I also tried two carpaccio. One was a plate of salmon carpaccio with tomato, basil, scallion & olive and a caper-oregano vinaigrette and the other was manzo, fennel, onion, and mint salad. The orecchiette with pork sausage, and broccoli rabe were also delicious.

Anthony Mazzola, the owner of Accademia di Vino and west side favorite ‘Cesca did a wonderful job with the wine list. He comes from the retail wine business and his expertise is evident in the depth and breadth of the list. It has something for everyone. There are over 50 wines by the glass. Even better, you can also learn something while you eat. There are seven pages of descriptions of wine varieties in the back of the menu. Blackboards abound with news about Italy’s 20 regions, their grape varieties and local wineries. The place does a pretty big business in the evenings with a mixed crowd. The formula seems to be working and they are talking about opening in other locations. I’ll be coming back for both the food and the wine in the not too distant future.