I went to Xai Xai, the new South African wine bar on 51st and 9th with a friend last night. It was actually the perfect occasion because I had just read Eric Asimov’s article in the NYT about context and wine drinking. I have to say, I have never been a fan of South African wines and Pinotage is not on my top 10 grape varieties. However, the article had helped me to remember that the event and the context of the evening was just as important as the stature and preconceived notions of the wines at hand. I wanted to try something new and Xai Xai was the perfect choice. It was packed. We waited about 15 minutes until Will, the helpful greeter, seated us. The bar is nicely done in wood and earth tones with cypress trunks and wooden ceiling beams. My favorite aspect of the decor was the stand of white driftwood in the corner. This is a nice date location or for a drink with a few friends. The menu is eclectic with African dishes such as Mini Bunny Chow with Lamb Bredie and Pap & Boerewors ( sausage) with Soweto Sauce. We stayed with more traditional fare. The salmon & asparagus with a sort of couscous were great as was a refreshing summer salad with goat cheese. Chef Chris Van de Walt who hails from South Africa did a great job. His Malva Pudding was an outstanding way to finish the meal.
With dinner, we tried a Viognier, the Eventide 06 from Wellington. The wine is made by Mischa Wine Estate. It was golden in color, with a citrus grapefruit, peach nose and a persistent, slightly buttery taste on the palate. It had nice acidity which went well with the salmon but it also didn’t overwhelm the summer salad. We also tried a Ken Forrester Petit Chenin ’07 from Stellenbosch. It was lemony and more floral than the Viognier on the nose with nice acidity and a good mouthfeel. It also had a touch of that yeasty, nutty flavor which I always get with Chenin Blanc. It also worked well with our small palates. The real stunner though, was the De Wetschof Estate dessert wine from the Robertson region. Nutty and rich with notes of burnt sugar, cedar, tobacco and honey on the nose and palate, it paired perfectly with the Malva Pudding. Xai Xai which is the name of a beach town in Mozambique is the brainchild of an Indian, a South African and an Albanian. Tanya Hira is the wine buyer and she has created an interesting list with over 80 wines. Wines are served either by the 250 ml pour or by the bottle. Prices by the glass are about average by New York standards, $8-22. I will definitely come back to this hangout and who knows under the right circumstances, I may just order Pinotage.


