This week’s indigenous grape variety hails mostly from Lombardy and the Veneto but is also found in a few areas in Trentino. It’s principal area however is around Lake Garda where it is a major component in Garda Classico DOC wines. It is often made into a rosato as well, locally called Chiaretto.
As a grape variety, Groppello, is hearty without being too vigorous and grows best on low hills. It is challenged in soils that have a deficiency in potassium and can at times present a sensibility to grey rot and oidium or powdery mildew.
There is also a Groppello that comes from the Trentino but that is a different grape variety. A well known producer of Groppello in this area is De Zinis
There is a Consorzio of these wines called Consorzio Valtenesi. Numerous DOC wines are produced with Groppello as the star variety including Valtenesi DOC (Groppello min 50% of the blend), Valtenesi Chiaretto DOC ( Groppello min 50% of the blend), Garda Classico DOC Rosso (Groppello min 30% of the blend), Garda Classico DOC Rosso Superiore (Groppello min 30% of the blend), Garda Classico DOC Chiaretto (Groppello min 30% of the blend), Garda Classico DOC Groppello and Groppello Riserva (Groppello 100%), Garda Classico DOC Novello (Groppello min 30% of the blend). Many of these wines do not arrive in the United States which is a shame. They are easy to drink and lovely with food. Just like their friends nearby on Lake Garda, much of this wine is consumed in situ…
Lo Triolet is a winery from the Valle d’Aosta that I discovered on my last trip to Vinitaly thanks to some friends from the Italian Sommelier Association. I like tasting with others from this group because their approach is very different from the one used in either the US or the UK. Often, they also know many smaller producers from various regions that I wouldn’t have access to from my home in New York City.
Lo Triolet is a perfect example of this. A winery from a town in the Valle d’Aosta called Introd, it is owned by Marco Martin. Martin decided to plant Pinot Gris at an altitude of 900 meters above sea level. From the first vines he planted additional ones and now has 5 hectares planted from 600 to 900 meters above sea level. The soil is sandy, interestingly enough and is what is known as a moraine or the remains of an ancient glacier. Thanks to this past the soil has many minerals. The wines that he produces show this particular terroir and have significant sapidity and minerality. Martin believes in integrated pest management and uses organic materials for fertilizer.
The Pinot Gris was the stand out for me of the wines that I tried although his Muscat was also interesting. He also produces a host of wines made from indigenous varietals such as Fumin and Nus.
I am a fan of the Valle d’Aosta and the wines they produce. A beautiful place to go skiing, I am sure it is also a lovely place to visit in the summer although I have never had the pleasure. Maybe someday…
I was lucky enough to taste the wines from this winery during Vinitaly in March of this year. I have a dear friend from Montepulciano in Tuscany and she is always angered that people confuse Montepulciano d’Abruzzo with the town and the wine from that town in Tuscany so I always avoid going into that pavilion. This year though, it was in a different area and I was able to taste without rocking the boat. All kidding aside, I have not spent as much time as I should trying this wines.
Montori was an interesting and traditional winery to discover by chance. I tried a number of their Fonte Cupa wines both the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC and the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC. I also tried their Passerina 2014 from the Colli Aprutini IGT 2013 which had great acidity. This group of wines are created only in selected years when the harvest is as one would hope and the quality of the grapes such that the wines they create are the top of the line.
I also tried the Riserva of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG from 2007. I was impressed with the wines and the potential of these low key grapes – Montepulciano, Trebbiano and Passerina to make not just friendly wines but also ones with more depth.
The tasting made me think I need to reconsider these grape varieties and spend more time in Abruzzo, perhaps dragging my friend along for the ride.
Every year when I go to Vinitaly in April, I see old clients, always look and meet new clients and often try to attend various conferences and spend time trying wines I know little about. This year in particular it was a very crowded trip, also because it was shorter than usual for me.
One conference I wanted to attend but missed was about the new denominations in Emilia Romagna for Pignoletto and the Colli Bolognesi. I very must like the grape, love the region and am fond of both the PR team that was hosting the event as well as the speaker from Slow Wine so it seemed that it would be a great addition to my trip. Pignoletto is also called Grechetto Gentile but has always been called Pignoletto in this region. Again, as happens every year, the best laid plans…go awry. The newly formed consortium counts 3000 heactares of vines and 8,000 growers.
For those who don’t know this grape variety, hurry up and try to find a forward looking wine bar or restaurant that offers it by the glass. It is a refreshing white that pairs perfectly with charcuterie and cheese for which Emilia Romagna is famous as well as their incredible pastas. Pignoletto has been cultivated in this region for centuries, some say even as far back as Etruscan times. Some nine million bottles of Pignoletto are produced every year.
Pignoletto is a versatile grape that is made into many different styles from dry to sweet as well as sparkling. I am partial to the dry version and drinking it when it is young, floral and fruity. I’m craving some right now in fact as dinner approaches.
I lived in Bologna in graduate school so I am quite familiar with the region and am a big fan of the area and the people and their culinary productions.
The temperatures have been very high throughout the US over the past week but Europe and Italy in particular are experiencing even higher temperatures. One place where I am sure they are melting or what passes for melting is Calabria I have visited the region in the summer and can confirm that it can be hotter than Hades. I remember eating their very spicy cuisine as a way to cool off in the heat. I wondered how these two indigenous grape varieties are faring: Guardavalle Bianco in Calabria, specifically Reggio Calabria and Guarnaccia Bianco, often used in the DOC from Verbicaro. This wine from Santa Venere Vescovado Guardavalle Bianco is the only wine made from this variety that I have found.
I found this interesting website which mentions the Verbicaro DOC. The area apparently has a mild microclimate thanks to the tempering influences of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Appenines, the Pollino Massif. The whole area is cooled by the breezes from the sea. Verbicaro is a sub-region of the relatively newly formed Terre di Cosenza DOC. I did a long interview with the officials of the area at Vinitaly in 2012. I loved these two statues and will forever remember that visit as well as the beach at Scilla.
A couple of exciting things have happened over the last few weeks: I was accepted into the Les Dames d’Escoffier. I along with esteemed colleagues are among the Bright and Shining New Members selected by Nominations Chair Joanne Hayes and the membership committee and heartily approved by the Board of Directors. I’m thrilled to be part of this group and look forward to promoting its mission.
In other news, an article I wrote was published in the Financial Times as part of an insert on Bordeaux on July 11, 2015 and I have a new Facebook page. My new website will be up shortly. It’s been a busy month but better happy to have all of this going on. Obviously to weather all this change, I have been imbibing lots of lovely liquid. Tomorrow I will be back to posting about wine but today, I’m still celebrating that birthday….