Tag Archives: San Gregorio Armeno

Wine of the Week: Les Cepages Baron Philippe de Rothschild At Metropolitan Museum of Art

Met Christmas Tree

One of the truly great places to be at Christmas, if not skiing somewhere exciting, sunning somewhere warm or sailing in the Caribbean, is New York City. The city is festooned with beautiful Christmas lights and alive with wonderful Christmas shows. I love Christmas and all that it brings, including for me, a trip to the Metropolitan Museum to see the Christmas tree and its’ Neapolitan Presepio.

The Bernini show I saw was truly fabulous and gave me a real feeling of being in Rome among his gorgeous fountains which adorn every major square and his incredible sculptures which grace the interior of almost every major church.

There is actually a street in Naples where the “Maestri” of the presepio have their shops, the Via San Gregorio Armeno, otherwise known as the Via dei Presepi. When I lived in Milan I had a good friend from Naples who made his own presepio every year complete with water and electricity. It was very impressive.

Presepio

One of my favorite places to have a drink in New York City is the bar in the hallways above the great hall at the Met. Years ago I wrote an article on the restaurants in American Museums but the bar at the Met is still my favorite. The wines are passable, the nibbles are too but the location truly can’t be beat. This year I tried a new wine on their list, Les Cepages from Baron Philippe de Rothschild.

It was cheery and nicely paired with the food on the list which this month is American fare to coincide with a show on Andy Warhol. At a retail outlet, I believe it sells for between $8-$15, a nice price for a wine to bring to a party.

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Filed under Campania, France, Holidays, Italian Art, Italian regions, New York

Naples, Natale, Il Presepio and Wines from Campania

Last week, I had the honor to translate for the curator of a new exhibit at the Italian Institute of Culture on the Neapolitan Creche. There are many different Creches by Neapolitan artisans on show which truly are worth a visit.

The creche of the Presepio as it is called in Italy is a nativity scene. It started with figures from the Holy Family but soon branched out to add colorful scenes of everyday life in Naples with local characters represented in figurines. According to the curator, an art historian, this tradition began in the 1700s in Campania. At first it was the province only of the wealthy but by the mid 1800s it was commonplace to find families from all different social stratum creating creches at Christmas. It is a family activity and people of all ages work on the presepio together.

My friend Giancarlo from Milan used to have running water and electricity in his creche. It was incredible. He would spend weeks making it and everything had to be perfect.

I have never visited the famed commercial street where merchants hawk their wares, San Gregorio Armeno but it has been on my list for many years. A friend in Milan used to make

To see some great pictures of the exhibit, check out I-Italy, they have a great slide show and an in-depth article on the exhibition.

I haven’t spent enough time in Campania, visiting the countryside, cathedrals and drinking enough of its wine. Luckily for me, my friend Terry Hughes of Domenico Selections is a true fan and has introduced me to some great wines from Campania.

I particularly like the wines from Terra di Vento, Petrale 2006, a lush aglianico and Faiano 2009, a Fiano. He also introduced me to a Grillo that brought tears to my eyes.

Both the whites and the reds from Campania are splendid, especially those vineyards on volcanic soil which gives great minerality to the wines, a quality I very much appreciate.

I won’t be having a seven fishes dinner this evening but I will be drinking a wine from Campania with my own Christmas tradition.

Merry Christmas to all. Buon Natale.

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Filed under Italian indigenous Grape Varieties, Italian regions, Italian wineries, italy