Tag Archives: italian wines

July 1, 2012 · 3:46 pm

A New Leaf: A New Nation, Hopefully A New European Champion

I saw this double rainbow over Manhattan from a platform in the middle of the Hudson just over a month ago. I now belong to the Manhattan Sailing School and one of the privileges of this “club” is that you can go to a barge in the middle of the river and watch races, drink wine, and apparently see double rainbows over the city. I haven’t seen a double rainbow in 20 years actually. The first one I saw was over the Adriatic at Lido delle Nazioni, a beach town near Ferrara where I used to spend a lot of time with my then boyfriend and his family. The water wasn’t great but it was a lot of fun and the Romagnoli (people from Emilia Romagna – the Romagna part) are a joyful bunch. The wines at the time weren’t fabulous either but his father was actually a wine expert of sorts and turned me on to some fabulous wines from around the country. I often credit Sergio with helping me to discover Italian wines and many other things about Italy.

I think about those days a bit now because of the earthquakes in that region and because it is summer. I spent many a summer biking around and looking at the beautiful vistas of poplar trees.

The area is very flat and is a great place to bike. The lovely town of Comacchio is nearby as well. Famous for their anguilla (eel) which I don’t care for except in Sushi, it is known as a ‘Piccola Venezia.” This  is a wonderful place for a family vacation.

Today I am sure the place will be alive with cheers around the European Championship, UEFA. I know I will be watching and routing for Italy. I love soccer championships and last week’s win over Germany was sweet indeed.

The agreement made on Friday that may stem the European financial crisis actually capped a great week in terms of big events. Once upon a time I was a financial journalist in Italy after I finished my Master’s program in economics and political science and the news cheered me. I am against the austerity programs that have been pushed through so completely by Germany while 100% cognizant of the fact that the reigning in of public debt is a necessity as is pension reform and everything else. Just as an aside, Italy’s debt to GDP was 116% when I was a journalist as well. I covered the bond market and followed ECB President Draghi around when he was the head of the Treasury so all of this looks very familiar.

That said, growth is necessary as well to pull us out of the recession and I am thrilled that this view is at least being considered in the European capitals led by Mario Monti, Italy’s Prime Minister together with Spain’s Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy and Francois Hollande of France.

The biggest news of the week though is the decision by the US Supreme Court to uphold the Affordable Care Act. I was shocked and thrilled to see that Chief Justice Roberts was the deciding vote. I had been braced for the law to be overturned but miracles do happen.

Healthcare is a huge issue in everyone’s lives, mine included as a small business owner, and this decision did make me feel more secure. One of the reasons it took me so long (15 years) to leave Italy, apart from the obvious reasons, was healthcare. Certainly the wait can be long in Italy for certain services but you don’t risk financial ruin if you get sick.

I read two blog posts that I liked about the decision, one by Adam Winkler, a law professor at UCLA and a former classmate of mine when I went to NYU law school. I know, it’s complicated but I like school apparently.

Another was a blog post I really liked by Jeremy Parzen of Dobianchi, a wine colleague from more recent years about watching the decision with his family.

While the future is not going to be smooth sailing or as picture perfect as my weekend in Liguria sailing around Porto Venere two weeks ago, I do feel that a new era has started. Maybe it’s wishful thinking but it is my hope that a kinder, gentler America where you don’t have to go broke if you get sick may not be so far off.

I’ll drink to that any day of the week, starting with one of my favorite Ligurian wines, Colli di Luni from Cantina Lunae di Paolo Bosoni.

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January 17, 2012 · 3:53 pm

Loss – Personal, Public, Professional

This has been quite the weekend of bad news I must say but I know that we all have to look to the future with optimism. Someone I know well lost someone dear to them, that horrible accident on Giglio, then the news of Giuseppe Quintarelli’s death. Like almost everyone else, I was thrilled by his wines and intrigued by the person. There is an article on www. acinoparlante.it by an Italian wine journalist that is a beautiful tribute.

For those who can’t read Italian, Eric Asimov’s tribute in yesterday’s New York Times is touching as well.

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October 3, 2011 · 10:35 pm

Italian Wine Fact: What Was The First Italian DOC Wine?

Reading through my materials today, I decided to start a new section on my blog called Italian Wine Facts. Today’s factoid is about the first Italian DOC wine. I was surprised to find out that it was Vernaccia di San Gimingnano in 1966. The wine received its DOCG designation in 1993.

Vernaccia is not an easy grape. The wine is generally pretty bitter and acidic. It has to be made from 90% Vernaccia and 10% of other grapes but non-aromatic ones.

I have had many Vernaccia over the years but it has never been my favorite, until this summer when I brought a bottle of wine from Podere la Marronaia called Visla to Cape Cod. It was made with a small percentage of Chardonnay and was at least three years old if not a bit more.

I paired it with this amazing lobster and it was a dream. The slight sweetness of the wine matched that of the lobster while the bitter notes were smoothed out. I know that people don’t think of Vernaccia as a wine to age too long but I had very good success with this one. It was also made by a friend, Barbara Tamburini, but I don’t think that’s why it was better than the others. I think it was just a good wine.

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September 29, 2011 · 10:30 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Bracciola Nera

This week’s indigenous variety is called Bracciola Nera. It grows mainly in Tuscany in the area known as Massa- Carrara as well as in Liguria in le Cinque Terre. It is rarely if ever vinified alone but is usually in a larger blend. It enters into the Colli di Luni DOC as a minor component.

This area of Tuscany is very beautiful and is more famous for its marble quarries than for its red wines. Vermentino from both Liguria and this area of Tuscany is quite well known but the red wines have lagged behind.

I visited Carrara many years ago and climbed the hills of the marble quarries. It felt like scaling mountains. I loved the area and it has always been famous for its artists. Pietrasanta, a town nearby, is a favorite haunt of all sculptors Carrara is where Michelangelo got the marble for his David. My Mother is a sculptor so I naturally made this pilgrimage.

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August 12, 2011 · 12:04 am

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Bosco Bianco from Liguria

Summer is certainly time to be in Liguria, a magical place in Italy with beautiful water and cliffs that come right down to the sea, not to mention great focaccia.

Another great thing about these small towns along the coast with their colored buildings are the great white wines that you drink while sitting outside a bar looking at the sailboats come in and dock.

When I lived in Milan, I used to go sailing in Liguria pretty regularly, a wonderful perk of living in that northern city that so many people criticize, including many who live there.

Another fun thing about Liguria is a wine called Sciacchetra’, quite difficult to pronounce but fun to drink.

The sweet version, or bianco dolce Cinque Terre DOC is made with this week’s indigenous variety, bosco biano 80% and two other local grapes Albarola 15% and Vermentino 5%. Bosco bianco can also be made into a still wine with other grapes but shows its best face in this version. It is dried on wooden racks called “graticci.” Drinking a glass of Sciacchetra’ is a must on any trip to “le cinque terre.”

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August 10, 2011 · 5:27 pm

Wine Wednesday: La Notte di San Lorenzo Calls For A Morellino di Scansano

August 10 is celebrated in Italy and by Italians throughout the world as the night of the shooting stars. This film by the Taviani brothers is one of my old time favorites. This night is famous because you can see a host of shooting stars in the night sky and of course, as we all know, you make a wish when you see one.

Historically, the night of the shooting stars is supposed to commemorate the tears of San Lorenzo who met his end on this day in the III century.

The movie set in Tuscany brings to mind Tuscan wine and “una voglia pazza di essere in Italia” (great desire) to be in Italy watching them this evening. Even if I’m not going anywhere, if I see a star I too can wish it on saying “Stella, mia bella stella, desidero che…”, and waiting for the event to happen sometime this year.

I’ve never seen as many shooting stars as when I have been sailing and anchored out at sea. I’m sure the mountains and camping provide an equally spectacular view but I don’t have much experience in the latter. In any event, wherever you are this evening, think of the stars.

The first time I saw this movie was when I lived in Tuscany. Back then, I drank a lot of Morellino di Scansano as did all the Florentines I knew. It was the go-to-wine in Tuscany for all occasions. This fresh red is perfect for summer foods but its’ versatility allows it to be drunk throughout the year. It seems like the right fit to celebrate San Lorenzo to me.

Morellino is made predominantly from Sangiovese but 15% of other varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Ciliegiolo can be included. Morellino is made in the Maremma area of Tuscany, a memorable place to visit.

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Filed under cinema, Italian cinema, Italian regions, italy, Travel, Tuscany, Wine of the Week, wines

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July 28, 2011 · 10:48 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Bonda

Italy, as we all know, has more indigenous varieties than almost any other nation. This is true throughout that beautiful country from North to South. This week’s indigenous variety is one called Bonda. It sort of sounds like an attractive and sexy brunette but is instead a grape that grows in the Valle d’Aosta. This red grape variety produces medium body wine and brings color to the blends it is added to. It is not used as a mono-varietal. In fact, it’s almost impossible to find any information about this grape variety.

Sometimes it is erroneously called Prie’ Rouge, another grape variety which grows in this smallest of Italian regions. I spent a long time trying wines from the Valle d’Aosta on the last day of Vinitaly with this incredibly well-prepared sommelier from the region.

What I love about people from that area is that they are very understated, a quality I like and that is very hard to find. The same is true about their wines. Not a lot of song and dance but a lot of quality behind their wine making.

I found two sites, new to me, that are really great sources for Italian wine lovers, wine90 and Tar and Roses.

I’ve been semi-absent from my blog this month. I’m basically home and astemia all month from the pain killers. I’ll be traveling back in time through my notes, wines and experiences. I’m glad to be back on track with my indigenous grape project. It’s taking a long time to get out of the “b” grapes but I am almost there.

Thanks for reading.

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June 30, 2011 · 6:36 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Bonarda Who Are You?

Bonarda is one of those Italian varieties that you assume you know well, have had, feel somewhat benign towards but yet wouldn’t go out of your way to try it again. Why is that I asked myself? First of all, because we have been confusing Bonarda from Piedmont with many other grapes and I know I am not alone in this.

People often mistake Croatina for Bonarda. Croatina is from the Oltrepo’ Pavese in Lombardy not from Piedmont. Then there’s Uva Rara which is often called Bonarda but is not the same varietal and is also from the Oltrepo’ not Piedmont. Lastly, all that Bonarda grown in Argentina and California is actually not related to the one from Piedmont but is its’ own grape variety, Charbono.

Therefore, who is the real Bonarda? A grape I have seldom met on its’ own. Bonarda, in fact, is usually used as a blending grape in the great wine of Gattinara DOCG in Piedmont to soften Nebbiolo. It also has its own DOC but you rarely see it in the States. In fact, I couldn’t find one Bonarda listed from Italy.

Most Bonarda has been grubbed up in Piedmont. When you do taste Bonarda, you will see that it is a bit sweet and soft and brings lots of color to a wine. This makes it a good date for Nebbiolo. The most well-known Gattinara producer, Travaglini, doesn’t use Bonarda in their DOCG wines but some producers do use it. By law, they can add up to 10% of Bonarda and Vespolina. This miscast grape may still not be at the front of your minds but we should at least get its’ name right. I know I hate when people call me Susan or Suzanne why shouldn’t the real Bonarda get its day in the sun too:).

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June 23, 2011 · 11:08 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Bonamico From Pisa

It’s Thursday and that means indigenous varieties over here at Avvinare. The latest grape that I’ve learned about is called Bonamico nero. It hails from Tuscany, specifically from the area around Pisa. It tends to be cultivated in the plains and lower hills. It is a blending grape that is quite vigorous but has little color.

The leaning tower of Pisa is undoubtedly one of the great sites. Yes, it is touristy but it’s also incredibly beautiful. Pisa is in fact, a very lovely city that is often overlooked except for this building.

The entire complex around the Duomo, the Campanile and the Camposanto is magical in my view. You can also see the complex from the highway which always amazes me.

I love the altar inside the Duomo that was created by Andrea Pisano.

Sculpture is one of my great loves thanks to early teachings and learning with my mother who is a sculptor. Something about the Pisano carvings is just so miraculous. The last time I visited Pisa some years ago, I didn’t stop to drink or eat anything but the Colli Pisani are making some interesting wines.

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June 22, 2011 · 3:52 pm

Tuscany Still Has A Hold On Me Like No Other

I guess it’s actually true that your first love can never really be replaced…In this case though, I’m talking about a city and a region. Last week, I was in Florence for all of 9 hours, enough to remind me of why I moved there and never left Italy for 15 years. Our love affair began over 20 years ago but it was June 1991 that it really took shape, when I moved to Via Vellutini, 5.

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So much has happened since then in life and in love, in the world and in work but I still feel like a kid when I get to Florence. It truly makes my heart soar and I think it will be that way forever. At least I hope so. I know it was last Thursday night when I arrived at 2030 at Campo di Marte, was picked up by a dear old friend of 20 years and whisked away to dinner at home with a group of dear old friends that I first met in July 1991.

That year I was studying gold leafing (a long story) at Palazzo Spinelli after having attended NYU Law School and deciding that my destiny wasn’t in the law but in the arts. Naturally, Firenze appealed to me in all ways. My gold leafing didn’t last long (I went to work for a lawyer) but my passion for Florence and my neighborhood did. I lived in the Oltr’arno on Via Romana for many years. At the time, I was lucky enough to see famed works of art on a daily basis in my local churches and museums, go vegetable shopping in Santo Spirito and gaze at the Arno whenever I liked. Last week, I was staying in a nice hotel near the train station and I opened my window to this view.

Brunelleschi’s dome, the church of San Lorenzo filled with Michelangelo’s sculpture and Giotto’s campanile were actually too much for me. I refused to go to sleep and stayed up to gaze at the views.

My evening was made even sweeter by a lovely bottle of wine I was drinking with my friends made by the Marchesi Ginori Lisci family. I used to work with their New York importer so I know this wine very well. It felt like visiting with old friends too.

Friday is the Saint’s Day of San Giovanni, the patron saint of Florence. It’s a great day to be in the city and see Calcio Storico.It’s also the day to make Nocino, a walnut liqueur. I wrote about this some years ago and re-reading my piece, I feel the same way today.

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