Tag Archives: Italian indigenous varieties

October 26, 2011 · 11:53 pm

Morellino Mon Amor – A Week Together

I have to tread a fine line as I work as a blogger, a journalist but also as a publicist and when writing about wines, I need to declare that some are my clients. So, here’s the skinny: I just did a whirlwind week in the United States with 11 producers from Morellino di Scansano. A lot of other people have written about Morellino this week, including Tom Hyland, the Chicago seminar leader and I hope many more will continue to do so. Robin Kelley O’Connor of Christie’s was gracious enough to host the seminar in New York as part of the Vinitaly in New York Tour on October 19th.

I had a great time discovering new producers of this friendly, versatile and fruity Sangiovese-based wine (at least 85%) with friends and colleagues, among them, my Miami guru… Charlie Arturaola, truly a wine luminary.

My high school boyfriend went to school in Florida and my nice Jewish grandmother lived there for 25 years but Florida has never really been on my radar as a place to live. I must say it does have much to recommend it. I might need to rethink a number of things.

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September 29, 2011 · 10:30 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Bracciola Nera

This week’s indigenous variety is called Bracciola Nera. It grows mainly in Tuscany in the area known as Massa- Carrara as well as in Liguria in le Cinque Terre. It is rarely if ever vinified alone but is usually in a larger blend. It enters into the Colli di Luni DOC as a minor component.

This area of Tuscany is very beautiful and is more famous for its marble quarries than for its red wines. Vermentino from both Liguria and this area of Tuscany is quite well known but the red wines have lagged behind.

I visited Carrara many years ago and climbed the hills of the marble quarries. It felt like scaling mountains. I loved the area and it has always been famous for its artists. Pietrasanta, a town nearby, is a favorite haunt of all sculptors Carrara is where Michelangelo got the marble for his David. My Mother is a sculptor so I naturally made this pilgrimage.

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August 4, 2011 · 10:22 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Boschera Bianco From Veneto

This grape hails from the Colli Trevigiani, around Treviso. It is used as a blending grape in a number of wines and is most widely known in its passito version called “Torchiato di Fregona,” a wine that I have never had the pleasure of tasting.

This white grape in a passito is surely a fabulous blend of honey and apricot, and other luminous flavors. I wish I had a glass right now in fact. Few know that I am a sweet wine fanatic. More on that at another time.

Boschera is often blended with the prosecco and verdiso grapes as well. Reading through different articles, I came across this description of a wine on Kyle Phillip’s Italian Wine Review.

Phillip’s Italian Wine Review was one of the first wine publications I read while living in Italy. I used to get a hard copy in the mail, wow times have changed. I’ve saved them all though. He’s got a fantastic palate and is extremely well versed in both food and wine.

This is what he said about Carpenè Malvolti‘s

L’Arte Spumantistica Cuvée 1868 Brut 2010:

“This is a special wine developed for Italy’s 150th anniversary, from Prosecco, Verdiso, Boschera, Pinot Bianco and Incrocio Manzoni. It’s brassy white with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense and complex, with citrus — orange — and apple fruit mingled with spice and some minerality, and some greenish vegetal accents as well. Nice depth and pleasingly complex in a young key. On the palate it’s full, with bright mineral laced apple fruit that gains direction from some sour lemon acidity and is supported by creamy pepperiness form sparkle, and flows into a clean bright sour apple finish with underlying peppery notes and sea salt. Pleasant, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with the meal; it’s not quite as bright as some of the others but displays a little more depth.”

Nicely done. I hope to try “Torchiato di Fregona” in short order.

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July 28, 2011 · 10:48 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Bonda

Italy, as we all know, has more indigenous varieties than almost any other nation. This is true throughout that beautiful country from North to South. This week’s indigenous variety is one called Bonda. It sort of sounds like an attractive and sexy brunette but is instead a grape that grows in the Valle d’Aosta. This red grape variety produces medium body wine and brings color to the blends it is added to. It is not used as a mono-varietal. In fact, it’s almost impossible to find any information about this grape variety.

Sometimes it is erroneously called Prie’ Rouge, another grape variety which grows in this smallest of Italian regions. I spent a long time trying wines from the Valle d’Aosta on the last day of Vinitaly with this incredibly well-prepared sommelier from the region.

What I love about people from that area is that they are very understated, a quality I like and that is very hard to find. The same is true about their wines. Not a lot of song and dance but a lot of quality behind their wine making.

I found two sites, new to me, that are really great sources for Italian wine lovers, wine90 and Tar and Roses.

I’ve been semi-absent from my blog this month. I’m basically home and astemia all month from the pain killers. I’ll be traveling back in time through my notes, wines and experiences. I’m glad to be back on track with my indigenous grape project. It’s taking a long time to get out of the “b” grapes but I am almost there.

Thanks for reading.

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June 30, 2011 · 6:36 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Bonarda Who Are You?

Bonarda is one of those Italian varieties that you assume you know well, have had, feel somewhat benign towards but yet wouldn’t go out of your way to try it again. Why is that I asked myself? First of all, because we have been confusing Bonarda from Piedmont with many other grapes and I know I am not alone in this.

People often mistake Croatina for Bonarda. Croatina is from the Oltrepo’ Pavese in Lombardy not from Piedmont. Then there’s Uva Rara which is often called Bonarda but is not the same varietal and is also from the Oltrepo’ not Piedmont. Lastly, all that Bonarda grown in Argentina and California is actually not related to the one from Piedmont but is its’ own grape variety, Charbono.

Therefore, who is the real Bonarda? A grape I have seldom met on its’ own. Bonarda, in fact, is usually used as a blending grape in the great wine of Gattinara DOCG in Piedmont to soften Nebbiolo. It also has its own DOC but you rarely see it in the States. In fact, I couldn’t find one Bonarda listed from Italy.

Most Bonarda has been grubbed up in Piedmont. When you do taste Bonarda, you will see that it is a bit sweet and soft and brings lots of color to a wine. This makes it a good date for Nebbiolo. The most well-known Gattinara producer, Travaglini, doesn’t use Bonarda in their DOCG wines but some producers do use it. By law, they can add up to 10% of Bonarda and Vespolina. This miscast grape may still not be at the front of your minds but we should at least get its’ name right. I know I hate when people call me Susan or Suzanne why shouldn’t the real Bonarda get its day in the sun too:).

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June 2, 2011 · 4:18 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: La Festa della Repubblica & “UNA”

Today is the “Festa della Repubblica” or Italy’s national holiday celebrating the creation of the Italian republic. This year is a special anniversary year, it is the 150th anniversary of the republic’s birth. All year long, the 150th anniversary has been celebrated in a variety of ways.

In fact, Eataly owner and entrepreneur Oscar Farinetti is celebrating by arriving on his sailboat in New York after a trans-Atlantic crossing with world class sailor Giovanni Soldini. The ship docked earlier today at the Chelsea piers. The initiative was more than just an Atlantic crossing with friends. The voyage called the “Seven Moves for Italy” also had a political bent. I wrote about the trip during Vinitaly 2011.

Veronafiere and Vinitaly celebrated the 150th anniversary by creating special bottles of wine that can be seen in the picture above. Ettore Riello, the President of Veronafiere, decided to create two bottles – one red and one white- with 20 indigenous Italian varieties each. He got the idea after speaking with Italian President Giorgio Napolitano last year at Vinitaly. The two bottles were beautifully made with a very long history and many significant references both in terms of the font used on the label – Bodoni, the creation of the bottle by a famous designer – Aldo Cibic and the packaging of the entire project.

Most exciting for me though is the blend. To make the “White wine of Italy,” a representative selection of wines made from autochthonous varieties harvested in 2009 were used. None of the wines were aged in oak.

To make the “Red Wine of Italy,” wines that were produced during the years 2005 to 2009, some of which were aged in wood were used.

I was lucky enough to taste these wines during a celebratory luncheon in March when President Giorgio Napolitano was in town. Riello and Giovanni Mantovani, CEO of Veroanfiere, presented Napolitano with the first bottles of the wines. The wines are given out to Ambassadors and dignitaries from around the world. Only 3400 cases of two bottles have been made.

The luncheon was held to celebrate the President’s trip to New York, the 150th anniversary of Italy, and the Italian and Italian-American community. The wine were served at a small apertivo before the lunch. I was serving them so I got to taste them. It was a moment that made me very proud and I was of course, wearing my distintivo or my pin from AIS

The wines were surprisingly good. The white wine was very minerally and absolutely ready to drink. It could also be kept for a few years thanks to great acidity. The red was not yet ready to drink but was also very pleasing.

The white is a blend of Priè blanc (Valle d’Aosta), Cortese (Piedmont)
Vermentino (Liguria), Trebbiano di Lugana (Lombardia), Garganega (Veneto),
Weissburgunder (Trentino-Alto Adige),Friulano (Friuli Venezia Giulia),
Pignoletto (Emilia Romagna), Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany),
Grechetto (Umbria),Malvasia (Lazio), Verdicchio (Le Marche), Trebbiano (Abruzzo),
Falanghina (Molise),Fiano (Campania), Fiano (Apulia),Greco (Basilicata)
Greco bianco (Calabria), Grillo (Sicily), and Vermentino (Sardinia).

The red is a blend of Petit rouge (Valle d’Aosta),Barbera (Piedmont),
Rossese di Dolceacqua (Liguria),Croatina (Lombardia),
Raboso (Veneto),Teroldego (Trentino-Alto Adige), Refosco dal peduncolo rosso (Friuli Venezia Giulia), Sangiovese (Emilia Romagna),
Sangiovese (Tuscany),Sagrantino (Umbria),Cesanese di Affile (Lazio),
Lacrima (Le Marche),Montepulciano (Abruzzo),
Tintilia (Molise),Negroamaro (Apulia),Aglianico (Campania),
Aglianico del Vulture (Basilicata),Gaglioppo (Calabria),
Nero d’Avola (Sicily),and Carignano (Sardinia).

The “UNA” bottles come with a beautiful little book with citations by many famed Italians and the national anthem at the end. My favorite quote is “L’Italia e fatto,tutto e’ a posto,” Camillo Benso conte de Cavour.

Auguri!

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May 26, 2011 · 10:52 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Bombino Bianco From Apulia, Bombino Nero From Basilicata

Thursday is indigenous grape variety day here at Avvinare. This week’s grape is Bombino Bianco, a white grape variety which grows in Apulia and some other regions surrounding that part of the Italian boot. Bombino Bianco is cultivated both in the area around the city of Bari as well as the Salento, lower down in Apulia near the city of Lecce. This grape variety has many names and is often erroneously called Trebbiano, the most widely planted white grape in Italy. Trebbiano is a distinct grape variety. In fact, sometimes, Bombino Bianco is blended with Trebbiano such as in the San Severo Bianco made by the lovely producer Alberto Longo.

I looked high and wide but could not find an monovarietal wines made from Bombino Bianco to try. I know that some producers do make them but I have never had one. A winery called Cantine Teanum makes one apparently.

There is also a Bombino Nero, which is a red grape variety that grows in the region of Basilicata principally and a bit around the city of Bari in Apulia. Bombino Nero is almost never vinified along but is used as a blending grape with Uva di Troia, Malvasia Nera and Montepulciano. Both of these grapes have no clear origin but some say at least the white comes from Spain initially. Both are extremely productive as well and are sometimes used as table grapes.

Both of these regions are close to my heart. In fact, Basilicata for me was something of a jumping off point or better, an arrival. I always said I couldn’t leave Italy until I visited Basilicata. Then I went and still didn’t leave for three more years. I will have to scan my photos of that beautiful region but suffice it to say that it is still very much as it was centuries ago. There is a great movie that takes place in Basilicata that came out last year called “Basilicata Coast to Coast.” I loved it although some said it was a bit sentimental. The again, so I am.

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May 12, 2011 · 9:47 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Blanc de Morgex – Valle d’Aosta

The origins of this Italian grape variety are not 100% agreed upon or clear, even to the “authorities.” Some put forth the idea that it is related to grapes in neighboring Piedmont while others suggest it is a field mutation that developed on its own in the Valle d’Aosta. What is known is that the Romans brought vines to the Valle d’Aosta.

The grape has a very short cycle in terms of its maturation which allows it to be cultivated at high altitudes such as those found in the Valle d’Aosta. For those of you who have been to Valle d’Aosta, you know what I am talking about. Driving up the highway at 400pm even in the summer, the peaks of the Alps accompany you throughout your stay and the majesty of the area is on full display as are the heights of the terraces where vines are grown. I have always marveled at how they are able to pick these grapes and ripen them enough to make good wines.

This white grape variety was the first that I ever had in the Valle d’Aosta when I went skiing in Gressoney about 13 years ago. The wine was from Cave Cooperatives di Donnas. This year, the comune of Donnas is celebrating the 40th anniversary of their obtaining the denominazione d’origine controllata (DOC) designation. I believe they are having a big party on Saturday, in fact.

I have also had the Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle from the
Cave du Vin. These wines and Blanc de Morgex from other producers are available in the US but not that widely.

This is a fresh and friendly white wine which is a perfect drink on the mountains after a tough day on the slopes or after a hike in that beautiful countryside. I’ve always had it with mountain cheese such as Fontina DOP, charcuterie such as Jambon de Bosses DOP, Lard d’Arnad or alone as an aperitif.

I wish I had great pictures from the Valle d’Aosta. It is such a marvelous and special place. I have been skiing there a number of times (Monte Cervino, Monte Bianco, La Thuile) in my years in Italy and each time came back with a renewed respect for the mountains, the land and the wines. I have not spent much time there during the summer but I am sure the hiking rivals the skiing.

Each year they have an exposition for their wines in September. The association is called the Associazione Viticulteurs Encaveurs. In Italian, the term “viticultura eroica” means that those harvesting the wines are basically “heros” because it is so difficult in terms of the slope of the terraces.

In terms of wine production, there are a number of cooperatives as well as many individual producers. I also learned that some 40% of the members of the cooperatives are women, a fact I found quite interesting.

I spent a long time with a sommelier from the Valle d’Aosta at VInitaly this year. He was so incredibly well prepared and knowledgeable that I felt I had taken a trip through the region and through the vineyards with him. In fact, I highly suggest going to the sommelier booths at Vinitaly in years to come. You learn a lot and can taste many wines. I went on the last day of the fair at 900 AM and was alone with him for about one hour. I realize not everyone has that luxury. I felt very lucky that I did. It was one of my favorite tastings at the fair and among the most instructive. I will write that up another day.

For now, just an invitation and a suggestion – visit the Valle d’Aosta on your next holiday, winter or summer and I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

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May 4, 2011 · 5:02 pm

Wine of the Week: Villa Bucci Rosso Piceno

My wine of the week is

Villa Bucci’s Rosso Piceno.

The wine is made from a blend of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Sangiovese. It spends a year in oak and six months after that in the bottle before being released into the market. I found it on wine-searcher for between $17 – $25 depending on the store.

I thought it was a perfect wine for a meat based meal. I had it on Passover with Brisket which was divine but I can also see it with lighter meats or a pasta made with a heavy sauce.

I’m very partial to Sangiovese as a grape, less so to Montepulciano but I did like the blend coming from this historic winery in Le Marche, a region I love.

Villa Bucci is one of the more well-known wineries in Le Marche. It was started in the 1700s and the family has a very large agricultural farm that grows wheat and other products in addition to wine. They are most well-known for their Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. They also make around 12,000- 15,000 bottles of red wine.

For more information on wines from Villa Bucci, check out their website: http://www.villabucci.com.

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March 3, 2011 · 8:29 pm

Italian Indigenous Varieties: Biancolella Bianca From Campania

I have been writing an indigenous Italian grape dictionary for about 18 months at this point. It has been a very long time since I have gotten back to this project but I will be posting one new variety every Thursday from now on.

My first new entry is about Biancolella, a grape that grows in the Campania region, specifically on the Island of Ischia. Tracie Branch Parzen of My Life Italian lived on Ischia for a number of years so I’ll leave the descriptions of life on the island to her. Of my 15 years living in Italy, I spent some time on the island but it was brief and tied to sailing.

Biancolella can also be found in the Campi Flegrei , Capri, Costa dAmalfi and Penisola Sorrentina DOCs but apparently it is in the wines from Ischia where it shows its purest expression.

This white grape variety was first written about in the mid 1800s. It does very well on volcanic soil and produces a lovely wine with almond notes on the finish.

Some producers that are imported into the United States include Pietratorcia, Tommasone, Casa d’Ambra e of course, Marisa Cuomo.

Many of these producers blend Biancolella with another indigenous variety called Forestera but some, like Tommasone, make a Biancolella “in purezza” or as a monovarietal wine.

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