Category Archives: Italian recipes

March 16, 2013 · 7:01 pm

Sweet Saturday: Be Still My Heart – Vivoli Comes To Town

I am jumping out of my skin today. Partly because it’s snowing, it should be spring and because I am participating in the New York Half Marathon tomorrow. No I am not running, I am walking it as part of Team in Training’s team that raises money for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society (LLS). The other reason I am excited is because Vivoli, a Florentine institution and my favorite gelateria in Italy is now in New York City. I couldn’t be happier.

Vivoli

Vivoli was one of the first places I visited that fated visit to Florence at 20 years old that changed my life forever. I love their gelato, old-fashioned, artisanal, real flavors that I recognize. Stephanie Teuwen told me about the opening yesterday and I had to check it out for myself.

Gelato

What I found, in addition to all the flavors I love, was a huge restaurant that I can’t wait to try, Stella 34 at Macy’s in Herald Square. The New York Times wrote this piece last month on the opening.

Stella 34

I felt like I was in Italy, maybe even on the last floor of Rinascente in Milan or at the bar in Como that I visited last month. I felt like I would look out the window and see the Duomo in Como (below).
Instead, I saw the Empire State Building which has its own fascino…

Como

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June 10, 2012 · 6:17 am

Back In The Eternal City – Roma

I’m back in the eternal city and too excited and overwhelmed to sleep. I’ve in fact been up reading since 400am but no matter life is to be enjoyed “anche durante le ore piccole” or the wee hours of the night.

I’ve been in town just two days staying with riends from Italy and hanging out with  friends from the States who were in a Master’s program with me in Bologna. In fact, Zach, Julia and their great kids Sam and Jules but not little Elena and I spent part of our afternoon in Piazza Navona.

We also went to look at the Caravaggio’s in a nearby church, San Luigi dei Francesi. Somewhat overcome with all the emotions of the beauty of Rome, we settled down to have fabulous gelato near the Pantheon. My favorites are always the same, coco e caffe but the chose was difficult.

San Luigi dei Francesi was one of the stops on my dear friend Teresa’s family tour of Rome. Her father, Brunello, loved Caravaggio and it was with Teresa that I first went to that church. I got to spend an amazing day with her family on Friday in Zagarolo.

I was Teresa’s testimonio di nozze in 2008 and I’m glad to be here for her fourth anniversary, more or less. I’m sorry that I will be missing the annual festival of the Tordo Matto. I tried this local delicacy for the first time at Teresa and Filippo’s wedding and while I am against eating la carne equina (I can’t even write it),I must say that this dish was particularly memorable and part of me is sorry to not have the opportunity next weekend but I’ll be in the North.

Teresa and Filippo have introduced me to some of the most incredible restaurants and chefs that I have ever met. Top among them were Sor Anna, Antonello Colonna and the famed sommelier turned restaurateur Pipero. Who you might ask are these people?

A trio of noted Roman food & wine notables. Anna Dente is the owner and maestra of the Osteria San Cesario.

Sor Anna is the “quintessenza della Romanita’.” I know not everyone reads Italian but I just found this amazing entry about Sor Anna on the blog Le Forchettine by the multitalented author of Aglioolioepeperoncino.com. This is such a perfect description of Sor Anna and a beautifully written blog post, worth reading with a dictionary to catch some of the underlying things that make Rome great.

Sor Anna is particularly enamored of Filippo and I have always had royal treatment when I have been at the restaurant. Sadly much of the menu are things that I don’t have nell’anima. Someone who I have always thought was her son but am now less sure asked me if I didn’t like eating the “menu macabro” or a menu of internal meats much to my dad’s chagrin.

I have never forgotten that statement nor have I ventured towards any of the items on that list but if you are in Rome and like those dishes, Sor Anna is a must.

Antonello Colonna I met at his restaurant in a town called Labico outside of Rome. It was the first “ristorante di alta cucina italiana” that I had been to in my many years in Italy. Filippo was the assistant sommelier when interviewed Colonna in 2005 and was fascinated with his conceptual ideas of the kitchen, food and the like. I remember him telling me about his plans to open a resort and I see from his site that his dream has been realized. I will have to check it out. He also runs a famed restaurant in Rome at  Palazzo degli Esposizioni.

Alessandro Pipero, un altro personaggio storico and good friend of Teresa and Filippo’s is perhaps the perfect incarnation of a restaurateur. He also catered their wedding so I have been able to see his work on in the intimate setting of his restaurant as well as at a wedding for 100+ people. This blog post about his new restaurant Pipero al Rex, also in Italian is just dreamy and makes me want to eat immediately, even through it’s only 730am. Not only would I trust all of his food recommendations but wines as well without blinking. Truly a memorable experience, you must meet Pipero at least once in your life and eat in his restaurant drinking wines that he has chosen for you. He also happens to be very funny so it really is a truly memorable evening.

As if all of this wasn’t enough, I’m staying with my lovely friends who are Rome transplants from Emilia and Milan, Cristina and Giuliano and their three delicious children Emma, Camilla and Giacomo who wasn’t born at the time of the photo in 2009.

Cristina is among the loveliest and brightest people  I know as well as one of the best cooks I have the pleasure to count among my friends. It’s always a joy to be in her house with her family and her food. Cristina comes from Emilia, Borgo Taro, specifically which is home to the mushroom. In fact some of the best meals I have had in Italy with mushrooms have been at their houses.

We’ve been friends since 1998 and I went to my first Cantine Aperte  with them to Alba. I had my first Barolo from Oddero and my first Brasato al Barolo with Cri and Giuli, other moments that remain in my heart. Here in the Boggiali house in Rome in the incredible neighborhood of San Saba, I have rediscovered the joy of being with old friends once again and spending time with 2, 8 and 10 year olds and their passions. For years I have visited Cristina and Giuliano in Rome, in Milan, in Levanto, and in Gressoney. Always welcoming and generous, I also was first introduced to wines from the Valle d’Aosta, Donnas Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle ,   with them and the particular varieties from their area of Liguria, Levanto, wines I love from Colli di Luni.

All of these wine and food discoveries have been part of the conversation and experience but never the main event, perhaps that is why I never realized just how many things they have introduced me to during the course of our long friendship. In just two days in Rome, I feel completely back to myself, my Italian life and of course more enamored than ever of this eternal city. Happy that I am just at the beginning of my trip, I may have to leave Rome soon otherwise my friends will have a guest “a vita.”

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December 2, 2011 · 10:39 pm

Italy in New York: Alta Cucina Opens for Lunch

I have been missing Italy a lot these past few days. It’s the holiday season, Sant’Ambrogio, the beginning of le citta’ adorned with Christmas lights and of course missing my friends. What I always miss is the ease of eating a good meal at lunch without paying a fortune. When I worked in Italy, you could go out for a relatively quick bite to eat and have something healthy as well as enjoyable while sitting down and chatting with a friend.

I am happy to report that the same is now true near my office in New York City. Alta Cucina is open for lunch from 12:00 – 2:30 pm, Monday through Friday. This lovely little Italian outpost is in an interesting area with a dearth of good lunch options, East 38th Street right off of Madison Avenue.

Alta Cucina, which is also open for breakfast Italian style – coffee and pastries – from 700am on, has been a resource for me in many ways since I moved back to New York and they opened their doors. Alta Cucina sells Italian specialty products and also holds cooking classes. I started my Italian indigenous grape variety series for their website and then moved it to this blog.

I don’t like to eat a heavy meal at lunch nor to spend a lot of money midday unless I am doing something festive. Alta Cucina has salads, soups, pasta and pannini at very reasonable prices which is also a joy. I ate there today and had lentil soup and a salad for a modest sum and felt like I had spent lunchtime in an Italian local. While nothing beats going to Italy, I am happy when I can find a touch of il Bel’ Paese here in New York City.

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June 29, 2011 · 10:24 pm

Bottega Falai – Tuscan Chef Iacopo Falai Expands Empire

I’ve just been in the mood for Tuscany lately, what can I say. I was there just two short weeks ago having dinner with friends I have known for 20 years. I miss those carefree Tuscan days and my friends but lucky I can get good Tuscan fair right here in New York thanks to Iacopo Falai who made his name as a pasty chef in New York and is certainly remaking himself into a serial entrepreneur in the food industry. His latest venture, Bottega Falai, is doing just as well as all of his other locations.

The Bottega operates from 7 A.M. – 10 P.M. and sells a number of items to take out. There are a few tables to sit and have a coffee and a pastry but the main thrust of the place is that of a caffe. In the Bottega, one can buy all the fresh ingredients used to make delicious dinners at the restaurant next-door, Caffe Falai. The location on Lafayette was just recently expanded. Of course, using the same ingredients doesn’t guarantee that you food will be as good as Falai’s but one can always hope.

One can find prestigious Italian olive oils, teas, pastas, mineral waters, seasoning, and some prepared foods as well as a host of breads and pastry made daily.

To read more about the bottega, check out my article on Alta Cucina Society’s website.

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May 10, 2011 · 11:31 pm

Largest BYOB Party Ever, James Beard Awards, Kevin Zraly

Last night the James Beard Awards were held in New York City. Many of the wine and food luminaries were of course in attendance, those getting awards and those merely watching the festivities. I really like this article in The Atlantic about the Awards.

For those of us who were not invited or prize winners, one had to celebrate in other ways. Luckily, my friend Eric Orange of Local Wine Events invited me to Kevin Zraly’s after party which was billed as the largest BYOB party.

I am not sure how many people where there but it seemed like a rockin’ crowd to me. I saw many of the wine world luminaries I know and some I do not. Kevin won the Lifetime Achievement award for his work in the field. Hats off to him. I have sat in on many of his classes and enjoy his enthusiasm and warmth, verve and energy when teaching. Many of his former colleagues from Windows on The World were in attendance which was very touching.

Hudson Chatham Baco Noir

Everyone brought a wine to the event. I tasted a number of wines including some that I had never tried such as a Baco Noir from the Hudson-Chatham Winery. I was favorably surprised.

I also tried Merican, a Bordeaux blend made by Eric Miller of Chaddsford Winery in Pennsylvania. I had heard about Chaddsford from my Society of Wine Educators friend Mark for a few years now but had never tried their wines. I was impressed.

Chaddsford Winery

Apparently, Eric and Kevin go back 40 years to early days at the Depuy Canal House in the Hudson Valley. Many of Kevin’s old friends were in attendance and it was touching all around.

Amarone
The best wine of the evening that I tried was a 1960 Bertani. It was so alive and still filled with fruit and spice, acidity and finesse. This 50 year old wine was drinking beautifully. Tomorrow I hope to write about my experiences at the Bertani home in Verona during Vinitaly. Quite memorable but for today just a congratulations to Kevin Zraly and other winners.

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April 8, 2011 · 12:37 pm

Vinitaly Day 2: Sailing From Italy To New York With High Goals

I’m working this year in a different way during Vinitaly so I can’t get to see or do all that I might like to do but I think everyone feels the same way. There are some initiatives I must say that I am sorry to have missed. One such event was a press conference that took place yesterday during the fair about a sailing trip from Genova to New York that Oscar Farinetti, owner of mega food emporium Eataly is taking with Giovanni Soldini, sailing superstar, 13 friends, 4 cooks and 4 sailors from Italy to the US.

The trip is described on this website, www.7mosse.it. 7 mosse means seven moves to reach an objective. Farinetti and Soldini have written their ideas in seven areas of life and want other Italians to write in their suggestions from politics to family to religion and other areas of life.

I think this is a fascinating initiative and will be closely watching the trip. One of my dreams is actually to sail from Italy to New York. I took up sailing in Italy and still only know the words for sailing in Italian. My first sailing experiences were in Liguria.

Speaking of Liguria, yesterday I was lucky enough to taste some of these wines. I have had much Vermentino and Pigato from Liguria but less Rossese di Dolceacqua. The area where Rossese is produced is near the border with France. The province is the province of Imperia. This area is a DOC and Rossese is one of the few indigenous red varieties that grow in Liguria. The wine was from Terre Bianche, a company founded at the end of the 1800s.

Their Rossese was much more structured and tannic than others that I have tried. It was from 2009 and was also very spicy and reminded me in some ways of a Petit Verdot. It also had a lot of minerality and savory notes. Interestingly the wine maker said that in some ways it reminded him of a white wine. What he meant by that was its linearity on the palate I thought. It went directly through my mouth in a very angular way.

I can’t wait to go back to Liguria both to sail and to try more Rossese, Vermentino and Pigato.

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February 25, 2011 · 4:23 pm

Italian Restaurants in NYC: Tarallucci e Vino – A Growing Brand In NYC, Fontanavigna Pallagrello Bianco from Terre del Principe

Tarallucci e Vino is owned by two Italians from Abruzzo who are very well versed in the culinary scene in New York. I have the pleasure of knowing only one of the owners, Luca Di Pietro but not the other, Pepi Di Giacomo. Oddly enough, Luca’s wife went to the same graduate program as I did in Bologna although not at the same time. I met Luca through a mutual friend, Alberto Paderi from Alta Cucina and GD Cucine and that first encounter at the bar at Tarallucci e Vino on 18th Street opened a new world for me. Or better, showed me where to find Italy in New York. Since that day, tutto e finito a Tarallucci e Vino, meaning everything has ended well.

I spend a considerable amount of time at Tarallucci. I teach Italian there to a lovely student once a week. We generally have the whole wheat honey croissant and cappuccino. The staff is lovely and always makes us feel at home.

I also meet people at Tarallucci for a drink and in fact, held a meeting there last week with the New York Chapter of Women for WineSense board members. We stayed briefly but I am sure the restaurant has some new fans.

I have been to the 18th street restaurant, the one on East 10th Street and now even the one on Columbus and 83nd. I’m still missing a trip to the SOHO Alessi shop on Greene Street. Each of these locations has a slightly different vibe but each is rigorously Italian. I can say unequivocally that the espresso and/or cappuccino at Tarallucci is among the best in the city if not the best in the city.

I did a long piece on Espresso bars for an Italian magazine a few years back which you can find here and have basically searched high and low in the city looking for that elusive perfect cup. I must say, I find it every time that I go to Tarallucci. That’s not the only reason to go there though.

I love the croissants in the morning, the quiche at lunch and anything off the dinner menu. The restaurant hired a new chef last year, Riccardo Bilotta who is doing great things. Essentially, I feel at home at Tarallucci and I trust that whatever I order, I will enjoy.

Being as much if not more of a wino than a foodie by trade, I also scrutinize the wine list each visit to see if anything new has been added or removed. One of my favorites is the Gragnano from Cantine Federciane

I always order that when it is on the menu. This last visit though, I tried a new wine for me, a Pallagrello Bianco Fontanavigna from Terre del Principe. The owners of Terre del Principe helped to bring back this indigenous variety in Campania as well as Pallagrello Nero and Casavecchia. Apparently, these plants were in existence pre-Phylloxera time, according to the importer Artisan Wines.

The wine itself was exquisite with apricot and peach notes, lovely acidity and minerality. It was somewhat full bodied and enveloping on the palate. I loved it. I’m trying to stay on the recommended one drink per evening suggestion of our surgeon general but that wine made it quite hard for me. As do many others :) .

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February 6, 2011 · 11:48 am

Italy, Vino 2011, Italian Wine Masters, Tre Bicchieri

February is one of those months that seem to drag for me. The economic and political news from Italy is pretty grim these days and the US papers seem to have only recently discovered what has been happening there for years. I’m shocked at the flashy, tabloid headlines the New York Times used a few weeks ago to underscore its’ horror with Berlusconi but the reporting behind the article was scant and disappointing with numerous quotes from journalists only. It’s as if I write about a wine using someone else’s ideas and tasting notes only. You get the point.

In addition to reading newspapers, one of the great joys of my life is the cinema. I recently saw Il Gattopardo again.

What a movie. Beautiful, sad, cynical, and true to the Italy of that time – of Unification, 150 years ago this year but also still so on target. Everything has to change so that nothing will is the essential premise of the movie. During the movie, the family makes a trip to their country home, Donnafugata, and to the properties of the Prince of Salina. These are remarkable scenes both for the cinematography as well as the social mores.

The Sicilian winery of the same name has always been one of my favorites especially their Tancredi, named after the character in the movie and the passito, from pantelleria Ben Rye which is absolutely one of my all time favorite wines.

I also just saw Roma Citta Aperta. A fabulous movie made with a hand held camera in 1945 by Rossellini. What a feat and what a sad tale of murder, betrayal, love and courage.

As you can see, I have been taking refuge in the movies these days as this weather does nothing to push me along especially with my knee injury BUT if you are lucky enough to be in our business, there are some great events that carry the day and cheer me up for one.

Vino 2011 was a big one for me, enabling me to see lots of old friends as well as meet some new ones. I thought it was particularly well organized this year and was happy to see some of the lesser publicized grapes and regions get more of their fair share of attention such as Sagrantino from Umbria and the entire region of Lombardy.

I also organized a few tastings of wines from the Valcalepio region for Cantina Bergamasca which were a hit and that made me happy. I lived in Lombardy, specifically Milan for 10 years and thus have quite a soft spot for the region and am always happy to promote initiatives from them, especially when the wines are worthwhile and one of the wine makers is an innovative, young woman.

I didn’t get to participate in some of the seminars because they were too full but I think overall, a good time was had by all, although the weather didn’t behave. I got snowed in at the Waldorf and had to stay with a friend because I couldn’t get home with the snow. I felt like Eloise and was perfectly happy I must say.

Onward, this week the Italian Wine Masters show is here. I’m actually going to be working at the show so I will see you there. Later in the month, the Tre Bicchieri will be here on February 18.

In the middle of the events, Vinexpo is holding a press conference in New York on February 15 to discuss the results from a study on the wine trade. All in all, it looks to be a busy one. I hope the weather cooperates. I am having fantasies about moving to Florida, a thought that previously would have never entered my mind years ago.

I may just need a vacation in Italy. It’s a been a long time since I have vacationed there although my last work trip did feel like a vacation in November. No complaints I just want to see the sun….

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January 23, 2011 · 12:10 am

Vino 2011 – Italian Wine Week Is Here

Vino 2011 or Italian Wine Week is here and I am truly excited. I’ll be taking part in some of the initiatives but couldn’t get into some great seminars. Everything filled up so quickly. I guess that’s a testament to just how interested people continue to be in Italian wine. That’s no surprise to me because it is my main focus everyday but it’s still great to see. I will also get to see old friends and hopefully make some new ones. I know I did last year.

On Monday, I’ll be at the Nasdaq which is very exciting, to watch Giovanni Mantovani, CEO of Veronafiere, parent company of Vinitaly ring the closing bell together with two great women in wine, Marilisa Allegrini and Cristina Mariani-May of Banfi.

I’ve never been to the Nasdaq and I’m exited to participate and to get back to my three of my favorite subjects, Italy, Women in Wine and economics. As a former financial reporter, I like the symmetry of it all when related to my own life.

Later that evening I will be at the American Cancer Society’s Hope Lodge facility where Vinitaly is holding a private wine tasting of Allegrini and Banfi wines to raise money for cancer research. I went to visit Hope Lodge recently and I was very impressed with the facility which hosts one caregiver and one patient from different countries while they undergo out patient care.

I look forward to both events and to Vino 2011 in general.

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December 29, 2010 · 7:02 pm

Italian Sparkling Wines For New Year’s Eve

I’m on my way to Austria today if all goes well. I still have to write about the most famous of Austrian Grape varieties: Gruner Veltliner and of course, the king of whites – Riesling. I hope to do that while I am away. If I don’t get the chance to write again before the end of 2010, I wish all a very Happy New Year and a healthy and prosperous 2011. Thanks for reading Avvinare this year. My readership is up but as always, it would be great to have more readers and much more participation.

I hopefully will ring in the New Year with an Italian sparkler. There are so many to choose from whether it be Ferrari from Trento, sparkling wine from Franciacorta, a Prosecco from the Veneto or a sparkler from another region. Italians are now all making sparkling wines from indigenous varieties, a movement I find very exciting. I have had sparklers from a wide variety of indigenous grapes – Ribolla Gialla from Friuli, Pecorino from Le Marche and Abruzzo, Pinot Noir from Lombardia and the list goes on. Not to be forgotten are the great red sparklers Lambrusco and Gragnano, among others. Check out Snooth’s article the other day on Italian sparklers for some specific recommendations. I trust Greg’s palate and his long experience with Italian wines.

Whatever it will be, I know a little piece of my heart will be in Italy on New Year’s as it always is, ringing in the New Year and saying tanti auguri, buon anno a tutti!!!

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